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Our first beer arrived with botanes (small plates) including flavorful tomatoes and jicama dusted with powdered chilies followed by steamy soup and fresh tortillas. Without her, I never would have found La Clave Azul, a multi-level cantina with small dark rooms decorated with posters of Augustín Lara, Maria Félix and other Mexican musicians above rough wood tables and chairs. After we'd chatted a while she told an assistant she'd be leading me off to a special lunch. Owner Cristina Monte Romero proved to be a valuable font of information concerning the city's highlights. I found the best through serendipity while browsing in the art-packed Artlalli Folk Art Gallery on Calle Positos. In a city jam-packed with students and artists there are bound to be lively cantinas. Estudiantinas, musicians and actors wearing velvet and brocade costumes, gather customers beside the theater for callejoneadas, tours of the center city's alleyways accompanied by songs, ribald jokes and elaborate swooping gestures sure to entertain even if you can't understand a word anyone's saying. At the gilded Teatro Juárez well-dressed locals, expats and students for gather for musical performances and plays, with tickets starting at less than $10. Bay Area home where Tom Hanks is said to have practiced acting hits market for $1MĬultural events take place throughout the year as well.Man reportedly harasses teen’s party at SF's Ocean Beach, breaks woman’s nose with soda can.Updates to Hawaii’s COVID-19 rules, travel requirements and mask mandates.'What a DISGRACE!!': California trucker convoy disbands, then angry supporters vent on Facebook.Father kills 4, including his 3 daughters, at Sacramento church.founder turned Bay Area politician says Israel-Palestine spat fueled nude photo scandal.
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This fascination becomes most evident during the annual Festival Internacional Cervantino, one of the world's finest cultural festivals. The Museo Iconografico del Quijote is packed with statues and paintings of the chivalrous dreamer and his sidekick other statues pop up in parks and plazas. A few blocks away, the massive Museo la Ahóndiga de Granaditas in an 18th-century granary demands attention, as does the orderly Mercado Hidalgo designed after a French train station for Mexico's 1910 centennial.įor some reason I never deciphered, Guanajuato has strong ties to Miguel de Cervantes and his famed creations Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. Almost next door, the Museo del Siglo XIX covers Guanajuato's history with documents signed by emperors, presidents and revolutionaries. Muralist José Chavez Morado's collection of religious paintings (think macabre, bloody scenes) and fascinating miniature displays of domestic and ceremonial rituals fills the nearby Museo del Pueblo de Guanajuato. The Casa Museo de Diego Rivera, birthplace of the giant muralist, displays an outstanding collection of Rivera's sketches, drawings and paintings. Nearby Calle Positos fronting the imposing green stone headquarters of the University of Guanajuato, served as the main drag from my hotel to several important sites. The Jardín de la Unión, a dense wedge of trees and benches that serves as the main plaza, became my headquarters for frequent map checks over coffee or beer. Streets appeared and disappeared with no apparent order amid looming church domes and jam-packed structures. When I looked out on the city the sundeck at Alma del Sol, a four-room B&B in a restored home, I understood the driver's confusion. We were saved when a local jumped into the passenger seat and explained our route.
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The underground tunnels and turnoffs are so confusing a taxi driver got hopelessly lost taking me to my hotel upon arrival. Pedestrians hug walls and teeter on curbs along skinny sidewalks. Many of today's 116,000 residents live in a jumble of blue, yellow and pink houses along spider-web alleys so narrow some balconies meet in a beso (kiss). The layout may have worked perfectly when the city was founded in 1559, but its designers had no idea what the next four centuries would bring. But Guanajuato (pronounced wan-a-waa-toe), with its tongue-twisting name, subterranean roads and maze of skinny steep streets tested my equanimity. I'm normally content roaming around completely lost in strange cities.